Skyline-HRC-fitting-help-4

Skyline HRC fuel pump fitting guide

Skyline HRC fuel pump fitting guide: How to remove/re-fit a fuel pump on an R33, similar on R34 as well

WE SUGGEST YOU DO THIS WITH NO MORE THAN A QUARTER TANK OF PETROL OR YOU WILL GET SOAKED!! !

First thing to do is to empty the boot and remove the rear carpet trim to reveal the battery, fuses and the access plate for the pump, with that out of the way you can now pull the fuel pump fuse out and start the engine. This should empty the fuel lines and depressurise the system, removing the fuel filler cap will also help. Once that’s done, replace the fuse and disconnect the battery.

To the right of the fuses you will see a square cover plate; this is removed by undoing the 4 10mm bolts and pulling the cover up. Don’t pull to far as it is still plugged into the top of the fuel pump. Just squeeze the release tabs and pull the plugs off, you can then move the lid out the way.

 

 

Release the clamps holding on the 3 fuel pipes and remove them, they may be stuck on quite tight and will require some effort to make them move but they do just slide off eventually. Be prepared for fuel to come out of these pipes by wrapping a rag around them as you pull them off. Once there off tuck them out of the way as the next bit is a right pain in the neck.

That black plastic ring you see has to be undone; unfortunately it will be VERY difficult to move. The best approach is to use a length of wood (about 3foot long) and place it against the ridges on the ring.

Then tap (whack) it with a hammer to release the ring. After some time and effort it should unscrew off completely.

Now you can lift off the top assembly, again, don’t try pulling it straight out as its connected to the fuel pump and level sender unit.

 

Disconnect the 2 electrical connectors underneath by pressing the release tabs and pulling them free, then you should have just enough room to reach your arm into the tank and pull up the fuel pump cradle and guide it out the hole. Be careful as while you’re lifting it out and passing it over your boot it will have fuel pouring it out of it.

The rubber sealing ring should come out with the pump but if it doesn’t just pull it out.

At this point I will stress to be very careful of the other electrical connector in the tank. It connects to the fuel level sender (white tube thing on the bracket next to the pump) and the other end goes into a sensor fitted into the base of the tank. If you do happen to disconnect this wire and lose the end of it your fuel gauge will go screwy, one minute full tank the next half and after one more corner the warning light comes on. It is not attached to the top of the tank so if you lose it, it will end up sat on the bottom of the tank on passenger side, out of sight and out of reach.

If changing to a different pump then the wiring is easy, all pumps have 2 wires a black for negative and a red for 12volt positive.

In the case of the HRC pump you need to cut the wires going to the original Nissan pump and join on the ones from the HRC pump. Keeping the push in connector that attaches to the top assembly.

When attaching the pumps to the cradle I found the HRC went in with a bit of a push, as it’s quite a small unit that was all it needed. But I would use the sock filter that is on your standard pump as the HRC one is too short in my opinion and make sure it is connected VERY well. My HRC filter fell off in tank and was unable to pick up the last 1/4 tank of fuel!

On the Tomei GTR pump (in pics) it was necessary to cut off one of the rubber tabs at the top of the pump, and where the pump is now at the bottom of the cradle (GTR’s have the pump at the top) the fuel hose connecting to the sock filter was cut down, and the hose connecting pump to cradle, as short as possible and re-clamped them tightly.


Re-fitting is the reverse of removing.

Ease the pump assembly back into the tank; you may have to guide the filter sock into the bottom of the tank as you let the pump slide down. Re-fit the pump bracket onto the bracket in tank lining up the forks of the bracket to go either side of this bit circled…

Once that’s seated fit the rubber ring by stretching it over the top assembly and pushing it into place on the tank
Re-connect the electrical connectors from the pump and level sender, they can only go one way.
Place the top assembly into the rubber ring but don’t push it into place yet, first make sure that all 3 fuel lines that connect to the top of it line up and will reach the appropriate connectors. 

When it’s lined up push it into the rubber ring/tank until it is pressed fully into place.

Now to get that black plastic ring back on, this will either go straight back on or will have you trying to line it up for 10minutes. Once it starts going you will have to use the hammer and wood again to screw it down tight. Check as you tighten it up that the rubber seal hasn’t kinked or moved.
Once that’s done you can re-connect the 3 fuel lines and tighten them up, then plug in the electrical connectors.

Before sealing the lid up you should reconnect the battery and start the car. This is to check that a) it starts and b) none of the fuel lines are leaking.

Once everything is tightened up and leak free you can replace the lid (the arrow on top points to the back seats) and tighten up the four securing bolts.

Finally replace the trim.